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“They’re just a guide and I eventually want to leave these descriptors alone altogether.” That’s not to say that Oliver will not be returning to the runway with ShayneOliver or HBA – he plans to reinstall himself on the ready-to-wear schedule within a year – rather, it’s an attempt to normalise more amorphous, experimental formats.
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“But I’m only listing these examples because it makes the conversation easier,” he says. That’s what kept artists coming back for more, what deterred them was the fact that it had become a ‘job’.” In time, Anonymous Club will manifest in records, festivals, and exhibitions – “both simultaneously and separately” – errupting like cherry bombs in club kid fashion pageants. “It’s about being truthful to the beginnings of HBA, which were constantly shifting, starting out as a magazine long before we took clothes to market. And though the collection demonstrated sophisticated – and often gruesome – twists on construction, it’s the organisation of Anonymous Club which really challenges what it means to make clothing. “It’s about shamelessly being able to borrow from my archives without feeling like we’re repeating ourselves, digging out my old toiles and letting the kids have fun with it.” As part of its first offering, that approach emerged in horned helmets, distended knitwear, hunched-over hoodies, warp-sliced denim, and air-brushed t-shirt dresses in slime green, cobalt, and white leather. “It was awkward for me back in the day because I was never comfortable with being considered an institution, but I feel anonymous with this project because I’m just a reference point for the work.” While Oliver oversees the development of a collection, the design process is kept as collaborative as possible.
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“As a person, I feel much more comfortable with being a figurehead than when I was at HBA,” he explains. “I’m moving into more of a founder’s role here, building a structure so that newgen creatives have a foundation to grow from,” he says, aware of the irony in framing this collective as somehow “anonymous” when he himself is such a recognisable frontman.
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And last week, at a Boiler Room takeover in Bushwick, Anonymous Club launched its debut collection of clothing, christening the first ever Club Couture: a series of late-night happenings welcoming the public into Oliver’s once-private presentations. Those interim years gave way to a slew of big-ticket collaborations, among them Diesel, Colmar, and Helmut Lang, but Oliver’s now made a triumphant comeback on his own terms – not just with HBA, which relaunched in 2020, but with a namesake label, ShayneOliver, and Anonymous Club, which scrambles all of his artistic endeavours into one creative studio, made-up of emerging designers and former HBA collaborators. At one point, the industry ceded, landing on “streetwear” as a catch-all term for the way Hood By Air had upended the fashion system – only in 2017, the brand went on a sudden hiatus, careening too close to the sun. I know exactly what I want, but I can’t control how that’s going to be formalised by the outside world,” he says. “If I do speak then the work becomes pigeon-holed. But Oliver has actively evaded categorisation, too, banning journalists and photographers from his presentations, wary of explaining the whole thing away. Though critics, like the silver-tongued Cathy Horyn, have described Oliver as the only “ disruptive ” designer to have ever come from New York, fashion has always struggled to get purchase on the chaotic nature of his practice, which straddles music, clothing, porn, art, and performance. I don’t draw on traditional references and my work is multifaceted so people tend to think of me as some kind of artist. “I don’t think the press has ever taken me particularly seriously as a designer. “I pray for you guys.” He’s barely slept, admittedly, having spent most of the previous night in his studio, but there is a slipperiness to his speech that could easily be read as reluctance. “Do you have air conditioning over there?,” he says, mid-monologue. Just as his train of thought begins to crystallise into something vaguely decipherable, he launches into another non-sequitur, another reference, which takes him down another stream of consciousness. Shayne Oliver has been speaking for about ten minutes and still hasn’t answered a question.